Pruning in March: More Flowers and Fragrance in Summer

Prune wisely in March and you can look forward to an explosion of flowers and fragrance in summer.

For home gardeners, the period between the first mild days and the final overnight frosts contains some of the most important weeks of the year. March determines whether roses, hydrangeas, lavender and other plants will be bursting with vigour in a few months’ time-or look rather sparse. With some know-how and sharp secateurs, you can get considerably more from your garden.

Why March pruning is so important for the garden

By March, many woody plants are almost out of their winter dormancy but have not yet produced soft new growth. This makes it the perfect time to remove old wood and shape plants. Cuts heal quickly, while the new buds emerge strongly.

“Pruning correctly in March determines the growth habit, abundance of flowers and health of your plants for the entire season.”

There are pitfalls, however: pruning too early can leave plants vulnerable to late frost, while cutting too hard can remove an entire season’s flowers from certain species. The following plants are particularly well suited to pruning in March-provided you follow the right rules.

Shaping specimen plants and trained trees

Whether beside a patio or used as a green privacy screen, trained limes, trained plane trees and evergreen trained bay trees need a neat shaping cut in March.

Tying in young trained trees correctly

With newly planted or still-young trees, the priority is guidance rather than shortening:

• Remove only shoots that are excessively long or growing across the framework.
• Secure the remaining branches firmly to the support structure with tying material, such as flexible tree ties.
• Do not cut back structural shoots intended to fill the future crown area.

Pruning too drastically at this stage will later produce a patchy framework rather than an evenly green screen.

Two pruning approaches for established trained trees

For trees that have been growing on their framework for several years, there are two options:

• Pruning back to old wood: Cut all young growth back to the older lateral branches. The result is a clearly defined structure with fewer but stronger new shoots.
• Block hedge pruning: Particularly with trained plane trees or evergreen bay, prune as you would a hedge, trimming every protruding shoot into a uniform rectangular outline.

The block-like shape is especially useful where the trained tree serves as a living privacy screen.

Roses: prune hard for abundant flowers

Roses may seem delicate, but they cope well with a firm cutback in March-and reward it with substantially more flowers.

Cutting back bush and standard roses

Remove all older, brown and exhausted stems. Leave only a small number of strong main branches, then:

• cut them back to a few buds above ground level;
• preferably prune to an outward-facing bud;
• make each cut at a slight angle so water can drain away.

The bush may look almost feeble afterwards, but that is precisely what encourages vigorous fresh rose growth with plenty of buds in summer.

Climbing roses: train rather than shorten

The same drastic pruning method does not work for climbing roses. Instead:

• select three or four strong main shoots;
• tie them horizontally or in a fan shape to supports;
• shorten side shoots just above the second bud;
• remove dead or dried-out shoots completely.

Shoots trained horizontally produce flowers at almost every bud, creating a blanket of blooms across the whole wall rather than just a few flowers at the top.

Lavender and heather: compact cushions instead of woody bushes

Cut lavender back firmly every year

To prevent lavender becoming bare at the base over time, it needs a decisive prune in March. A useful guide is:

“Cut lavender back to around 15 centimetres above the ground every year-do not cut into entirely old, bare wood.”

This applies to both common lavender and French lavender. If it is not pruned, it develops long, thin shoots with few flowers and a bare, woody lower section.

Distinguishing between heather types

Heather is easy to care for, but it will only remain dense and floriferous if you use secateurs regularly. The distinction is important:

Heather type	Pruning time	Pruning height
Summer heather (Calluna)	March	8–12 cm above the ground
Winter heather (Erica)	Summer	Also just above the old wood

Always prune just above the woody section. If only old, bare shoots remain, the plant will struggle to grow back.

Hydrangeas: pruning without losing the flowers

The correct pruning method for hydrangeas depends heavily on the variety. Anyone who cuts every stem back indiscriminately risks a season with very few flowers.

Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas

These varieties form their flowers from buds that were already created in the previous year. Therefore, in March it is enough to:

• remove only some of the old, thick stems-around one fifth-close to ground level;
• cut faded flower heads just above the first strong pair of buds;
• avoid cutting lower down, as this removes future flowers.

This gradually rejuvenates the plant while still ensuring a generous display of flowers.

Panicle and smooth hydrangeas

Popular panicle hydrangeas produce buds on new wood, so you can prune more firmly:

• cut panicle hydrangeas back to around 40 centimetres;
• cut the smooth variety ‘Annabelle’ back to about 10 centimetres.

Strong new shoots bearing large flower heads will develop from these short stubs during summer.

Special varieties: oakleaf hydrangea and climbing hydrangea

Oakleaf hydrangeas can be lightly shortened in the lower area, to around 10 to 20 centimetres above the ground. When grown as a specimen plant, simply thinning out a few older shoots is often sufficient.

The climbing hydrangea is a special case: it sets its buds early and flowers from spring into early summer. Prune it only after flowering, otherwise you will remove all of its buds at once.

Butterfly bush: more pruning produces more flowers

The butterfly bush, also known as Buddleja, tolerates an exceptionally hard cutback. Without pruning, it becomes woody and produces plenty of stems but few flowers.

“Large varieties of butterfly bush can be cut back to 30 to 50 centimetres in March, while dwarf varieties can be reduced to around 15 centimetres.”

Make cuts immediately above small buds or side shoots. These will produce the new flowering stems in spring.

Keeping climbers and shrubs under control

Containing ivy regularly

Ivy grows for almost the entire year; it is slower in autumn and winter, but continues steadily. March is a good time to control it:

• cut away all loose or overhanging growth;
• remove shoots growing into gutters, timber cladding or cracks;
• shorten ground-level runners-ivy can spread by well over a metre each year.

Consistent pruning prevents damage to façades and keeps the growing area neatly defined.

Keeping St John’s wort compact

St John’s wort shrubs, particularly ornamental forms with yellow flowers, grow quickly and densely. Without pruning, they tend to become bare in the centre. Cutting them back to around 20 centimetres above ground level in March encourages dense, bushy new growth.

Mediterranean plants: caring for olive trees and oleander correctly

Shaping an olive tree in March

Olive trees feature in many front gardens and patio containers, yet they are often pruned too cautiously. March is the time to establish the basic framework:

• remove every dead branch and those growing inwards;
• thin the crown slightly to allow light into the middle;
• shorten overly long shoots until the desired silhouette is achieved.

Olive trees regrow well. A slightly bolder cut creates a clear shape and healthy, sturdy branches.

Oleander: cut back hard, but carefully

Oleander is tougher than many people assume and will tolerate having up to half the length of its shoots removed in March. Completely remove frost damage, brown tips, and thin or weak growth.

“Important: Oleander is poisonous in every part of the plant-wear gloves when pruning and keep plant sap away from children and pets.”

After pruning, place the container somewhere bright and warm, and water it sufficiently. A sunny position and regular watering encourage fresh growth and abundant flowers.

Practical advice for safe, clean pruning

A few basic rules will prevent March pruning from becoming a shock for your plants:

• Sharp tools: Blunt secateurs crush shoots, and open wounds are more likely to rot.
• Clean blades: Disinfect them briefly before pruning, especially after working on diseased plants.
• Never prune during hard frost: Frost-free days with dry weather are ideal.
• Pay attention to the cut: Always cut at a slight angle, a few millimetres above a bud.
• Old and diseased growth first: Dead, damaged or fungus-affected shoots should always be removed completely.

For larger shrubs in particular, an annual plan is worthwhile: prune the species listed here in March, then tackle varieties that flower on old wood in summer. This keeps the garden well maintained throughout the year, without having to wonder where to make the next cut.

Anyone who completes these March jobs consistently will see the difference clearly in summer: denser hedges, more lavish roses, full hydrangea flower heads and Mediterranean container plants that do more than merely survive-they thrive. Garden pruning takes a few hours, but the reward lasts for the whole season.